I use this for single pitch sport only and has two advantages: stopper knot on the outside; if the knot did loosen fully, you still end up with a regular bowline with a very long tail. Personally, I would still recommend you to tie a stopper knot, as I have witnessed the loosened Yosemite Bowline over a course of a day. Many knots are not suitable for the risks involved in climbing. Falling is a norm especially indoor, and then the ease of untying is a significant advantage, as well as a speedy tying-in, which comes particularly handy in intensive indoor sessions like 4×4. Double Yosemite bowline – It is basically a double bowline with a Yosemite tie off. The major disadvantages are, No responsibility is accepted for incidents arising from the use of this content. Also, another advantage is the rope-end is at the outside of the knot and hence is less likely to catch a harness or body, whereas in the standard Bowline or Double Bowline, the rope end and the stopper knot near it touch and catch surrounding things like a harness all the time. Double Bowline With Backup Pros. Therefore, when the knot is tightened under a load, it constricts its own tail-end, and so reduces the risk of getting weakened due to lack of (or undone) stopper knot. Essentially, Double Bowline keeps all the basic principles (and hence cons) of the standard Bowline, but advances some of them. Knot illustrations contained in this web site are not intended for rock climbing instruction. Unfortunately, I don't agree with your point against anti-Lapp Knot configuration – I would appreciate the reference to support your argument, if you could give one – and hence the discussion that follows.— Quest for climbing without avoidable risksHere is the detailed background, followed by some discussion.You have completely missed the key underlying issue!Your video explaining the failure mode of the Bowline with 'Yosemite finish' is incorrect.I have investigated the issue, and presented it in the video in this blog.
)Now, I don't think Yosemite Bowline is trustable enough for me.This failure mode can be induced in both orientations of the tail.However, I do not use it during multi-pitch climbing or in winter, because I did notice its tendency to come loose over an extensive period of time, probably after the knot has been rubbed by something surrounding without me noticing.
It is stronger, and is even easier to untie after the load, than the standard Bowline.
Yosemite Bowline knot has served me well so far.The Bowline knot [2018-06016: referring to Asheley's #1 hereafter, unless otherwise mentioned] used to be the most popular knot for climbers for a tying-in point to a harness. Tied correctly, the double bowline is a safe, versatile climbing knot and will hold the weight of a fall without fusing. I have heard of a rumour Double-Bowline is pretty popular in Germany as the tie-in knot.Yosemite Bowline has a follow through of the rope-end via the knot itself. I'm happy with this in a sport context with frequent tieing and untieing.I confess I have been using Yosemite Bowline knot as my harness tying point for well over a decade for indoor or summer single-pitch climbing. The two most popular variants, apart from Left-hand Bowline (also called Cowboy Bowline, Dutch Marine Bowline, and Winter Bowline, Ashley's #1034½), among climbers are Double-Bowline (Ashley's #1013) and Yosemite Bowline. One HELLuva lot of bowline confusion would be spared were the proper FRONT side of the knot shown instead of --as has been done since the dark ages-- the back side :: show the side where the main line crosses itself in making that key/bowline-defining loop!! The Bowline knot (and its variants) have two advantages over Figure-of-Eight, that is, it is easier to untie, which is handy after the knot is heavily loaded (by falls), and is marginally quicker to tie.
Because of the danger of incorrectly tying the Yosemite bowline, it may be safer and less error-prone to use a standard or double bowline with a backup stopper knot added to the tail, such as a double overhand knot tied around the loop. How to tie the Yosemite Bowline Knot. The "popular in Germany" bowline is the bowline on a bight (tied by rethreading),which is the only recommended variant by at least one of the German speaking Alpenverein for tieing in (confusingly called a Doppelter Bulin, hence being mixed up with the double bowline). A Yosemite Bowline "can be" a very secure loop knot when tied correctly, and is a version of the Bowline with the free end wrapped around one leg of the loop and tucked back through the knot, commonly known as a "Yosemite finish."
The fact does cast some doubt over its reliability.Thank you for your comment, Mark. Many factors affect knots including: the appropriateness of knots and rope materials used in particular applications, the age, size, and condition of ropes; and the accuracy with which these descriptions have been followed.
However, there are still a considerable number of climbers who prefer to use Bowline knot or its variants.
Where failure could cause property damage, injury, or death, seek professional instruction prior to use. Please look over Mark Gommer's comment above on the subject as he a subject expert especially when it comes to knots.Double Bowline has two loops instead of one to thread the (end of the) rope through. For big falls, this knot, which is easier to undo, solves the fused-figure-8 problem. My conclusion is as follows.This information is incorrect. Nowadays, a majority of climbers use Figure-of-Eight instead, primarily because Fig-8 is far more foolproof than Bowline. However, I do not think it is less likely to come loose than the standard Bowline. Yosemite Bowline.
There's no risk that you'll need to cut the rope off your harness.